Peter & Elizabeth Storey and the Mathers

June 23, 2007 Saturday

Today, we had lunch with Peter & Elizabeth Storey, and with Mike (minister from Indiana, also traveling on a grant), Kathy, Conor, and Jordan Mathers. (Peter recommended bobotie, a Malay dish, so that is what I had… Reminded me a bit of a light meatloaf. Then we all shared a lovely cinnamon-flavored, coconut-covered doughnut-type sweet that sounded like “cooks sista".)

I don’t know all their activities, but I do know that Peter and Elizabeth are long-time activists, and that Peter has been a pastor and Bishop, and that he has also spent time in the U.S. teaching at Duke University and Methodist Theological School in Ohio.

One theme I heard emphasized was listening for and articulating (succinctly) God’s call, in particular for justice for “the poor”, in the context of a respectful relationship.

Later, John and I spent more time with the Mather family (whom we just met, but with whom John had been in e-mail and phone contact). We explored the Alfred & Victoria Waterfront. In particular, I wanted to see the statues of South Africa’s four Nobel Peace Prize winners:
1) Albert Luthuli
2) Desmond Tutu
3) FW de Klerk
4) Nelson Mandela.

I hope it does not seem disrespectful, but it was a great photo-op.

Plus, the display quoted the Mandela words that Thando tried to teach us yesterday:
‘‘Umntu ungumntu ngabantu."
(“A person is a person through other people.”)

Robben Island and Townships – Friday, June 22, 2007

Their voices are fresh in my mind. And yet they begin to fade already. But even if they become less distinct, they will not disappear, for now they are a part of me.

Two visits were scheduled for today:

1) Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was a political prisoner; and

2) Langa and Gugulethu, two townships near Cape Town.

My spelling of person’s names may not be correct, but I want to include them as well as I can.

Today was an official tour day, so first thing this morning, a driver/escort called Iby transported us to the waterfront to pick up the boat headed for Robben Island. Along the way into town, we learned that his family was one of those forced to leave District Six (a formally mixed-group area) when the apartheid law was passed that allowed only whites to live in cities. Blacks moved to “townships”, and District Six (as other areas) was razed. We passed the land that even today, sits empty – prime city real estate. There is talk of rebuilding there, but of course, that will be expensive. We also learned that Iby taught himself to speak English by watching American movies. (His first language was Africaans.)

Boat ride to the island
I had thought the boat ride across a piece of the Atlantic Ocean might be rather high adventure, but it turned out (due to calm weather) to have a similar feel to an Arnold catamaran ride to Mackinac Island (Michigan, USA). There was no magnificent Mackinac Bridge in sight, but looking back on Cape Town, there was the soaring classic profile of Table Mountain, starting with Devil’s Peak on the left, then the Table, then a little lower was Signal Hill, and higher was Lion’s Head on the right. We also saw a seal and several dolphins along the way.

U.S. Connections
First we met (our accent gives us away) a family from Colorado, with a daughter at the University of Michigan. Then we met a campus team of 21 leaders (United Methodist campus ministers Kim and Malcolm) and students from the University of Maryland and Howard University, who had been up to Johannesburg together.

On the island
Dan was our group’s driver once we arrived on the island. He pointed out both landmarks and animals (penguins, English deer, lots of rabbits, springbok, and peacocks).

Landmarks included the house where Robert Sobukwe was detained in isolation, and the lime quarry where Mandela and others worked (and the hole where they held University).

Derrick Basson was our guide inside the prison. He had also served time there as a political prisoner (a prerequisite to work as a guide) and is now 40 years old. Derrick explained something about the daily life of prisoners.

Township visits - back on the mainland
Next we were joined by Thando (which he said means “Love” in Xhosa), our guide for our township visits. He explained that there are three different “clicks” in the Xhosa language. (I will have to listen more closely.)

Langa
We (Eby) drove to the township of Langa, where we met Patricia, one of a half dozen women working at an outdoor shop. Each had her own area for a table and an open fire. Patricia explained her work (12 hours a day, 7 days a week). On her table were several sheep heads. There was a roaring fire behind her, which she used to help sear off the hair, which she would then scrape more completely off with her tool. She then added the heads to the bubbling pot at the edge of her fire. Then after about an hour, she would remove it. The meat is then scraped out for eating. (She had earlier removed the brain.)

I know you may wonder how it tasted, and I will have to tell you I did not have any. But please let me know if you do. (It looked rather like chicken when it was done.)

Thando also introduced us to a man who practiced traditional medicine, and we admired his collection of materials he uses.

Thando explained that 60,000 residents of District Six had been removed. He said that was just one of 42 areas that had been moved. (These townships are not a part of District Six; I am just covering my notes.)

Gugulethu
Thando explained that this means “our hope”. It is a place of redevelopment, in situ, meaning that people do not move away, but only aside, while improvements such as running water and a toilet are being provided by the government. They move their residence back on that spot and expect to be able to build a new house within a couple years. We saw examples of these stages. Seeing people across the road with a new house does not bring jealousy, but hope, Thando said.

Thando had many words of hope and wisdom to share. It sounded like he had read many books, and perhaps should be writing his own.

One lesson was that asking the mood of the people is like determining if a pot of rice is done. You do not have to eat the whole pot. You just need one grain. The test grain for South Africa is Nelson Mandela, he said. Mandela represents hope.

A Xhosa phrase he tried to teach us:
Umntu gumntu gabantu (I believe).
“People are people by virtue of other people.” (about living in community)

I record a few words of greeting here in hopes of better remembering them.
Molo – Greeting (singular)
Molweni – Greeting (plural)
Kunjani? – How are you?
Pilile – Fine
Enkosi – Thank you

Thando also welcomed picture-taking, including of those we met with him (we asked). He encouraged people to come and connect with each other, the better to understand each other and to appreciate each other as individuals with God-given worth.

Our time ended with a visit to Thando‘s own home, with final words and lessons, and from us, of course, our own lesson to him that Michigan is as close as your hand.

John and I had been saying for months, “We’re going to Africa!”
Today we said, “We are in Africa!”

Table Mountain – June 21, Thursday

John found our way (left side of road) part way up Table Mountain to the cable car station, where we embarked on the quick ascent the rest of the way up. Maybe I was too tired to be afraid. But I was also excited.

I understand that some days the mountain is covered with a “table cloth” of clouds, but today was a clear winter day, with terrific 360 degree visibility as we walked around the top. Definitely a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

The view included Robben Island, which we are visiting tomorrow (out 7 miles aboard some kind of boat in the Atlantic Ocean).

In the meantime, John has been talking to “contacts” and making plans with some.

Flight to South Africa

June 18-19 Monday – Tuesday

James drove us to the airport before work. We flew United from Detroit to Dulles International Airport at Washington D.C. We hurried to our connection aboard South Africa Air to Johannesburg, then boarded another plane for Cape Town.

Last week, Trevor had wisely counseled not to rent a car at the airport after traveling over night for two days, then driving (manual transmission, which John can drive) on the left side of the road at night. We waited until the next day to pick up a car. Good idea!

Gavin, a new friend, sent by his friend Mark Stephenson of Salty Print (I still need to meet Mark) kindly drove us downtown to the Avis rental place and helped orient us to driving and landmarks like Devil’s Peak, Table Mountain, and Lion’s Head (in that order if you are looking at the classical view).

By the way, I was stunned that first morning (Wednesday) to step outside the hotel to the magnificent view of Table Mountain (which Gavin later explained did not match the picture in my mind because it was a side view). Our plane had arrived at 7:00 Tuesday night, a dark winter’s night here, so I had seen nothing.

Although it was dark and quiet for several hours on the plane, I had not slept much. (I did not get in as much reading on the plane as I had hoped either, because of the darkness.) I was so glad to have a place to sleep horizontally at the hotel! My body is still adjusting, or maybe just reacting. (The time is six hours later here than home. )

Home for a brief weekend - June 15 (driving day), 16, & 17

Sunday, we worshiped at Tom Hartley’s church, Community Presbyterian Church in Waterford. Tom and John have been friends since junior high (Adams), even on to Michigan State University and then summer jobs as camp counselors at Camp Dearborn’s Youth Camp. (We all met our spouses there. Tom married Sherrie.) We also got to see their sons and meet their wives. (One was from South Africa, so we had all sorts of questions.)

Ruth Graham - June 14

Ruth Graham – June 14

After a mostly quiet day back at the house, we tuned on the news at night. The leading story was the death of Ruth Graham (wife of evangelist Billy Graham). They lived not far away.

Grandfather Mountain - Asheville, NC

Grandfather Mountain – Asheville, NC

June 12 & 13 (Tues.- Wed.)

I had thought I would stay back at our room to catch up on some quiet reading while John drove off to Grandfather Mountain (about 2 hours away) for each of two days of woodcarving instruction by accomplished character carver Tom Wolfe.

However, why not combine them? The shop/studio was above the gift shop on top of Grandfather Mountain. I had climbed the mountain several years ago, and beside the spectacular views, my most vivid memory is later realizing that the fog next to my feet at certain places along the ascent was actually cloud at the open edge of the mountain. There had been nothing next to my feet. Grandfather Mountain was also the scene of Tom Hanks running up the mountain and running down the mountain in the movie, Forrest Gump. Driving those hairpin turns would be no less an adventure than on foot. And, it is beautiful!

Mountaintop Reading

I read three rather short books on loan:

- Cape Town

- District Six and

- Voices from Robben Island.

I also began Desmond Tutu’s No Future Without Forgiveness.

Mountaintop experiences

First, picture a parking lot on the top of a mountain. Then, consider that the mountain is big enough to handle it. It is not ruined.

Sights ranged from immense to immediate. I could see a magnificent view, even from the car, of the valley and of higher rocks and of Mile-High Bridge (above sea level). But when I stepped out, a slate-colored junco flew over practically at my feet. Not far away were flowers I had wanted to see since viewing North Carolina tourist material about 20 years ago, rhododendrons in bloom on the mountainside (thanks to being there in June!). The more delicate mountain laurel and the (orange) flame azalea were also in bloom.

I walked across the Bridge a couple times and down some trails, but did not wander too far off. Conscious of available time, I easily offered to take tourists’ photos so their whole group could be together. Once, they offered, since I was alone, to return the favor and take my picture. I declined, starting to explain that my husband was actually inside… But I changed my mind, and there is now a very nice photo of me sitting on a rock (on our site Photo page), which was taken by some very nice tourists from….I think some faraway place.

Both days were beautiful and sunny and clear, but also had moments of clouds rolling across the mountain and down into the valley, bringing some badly needed rain, though “not enough”. Once, in a quiet reading moment, I thought stones were falling on the car. (We were parked by a rock-overhang, so it could be….) But no, that was the sound of hail.

I practiced using the new camera (finally, James), both of mountain views (most of the Grandfather Mountain shots on the Photo page are mine) and of the carving lesson in the studio. Tom Wolfe, the carver, had some great stories and one-liners and I so wanted to capture a moment of his quick laughter. Oh, I loved his laughter! But not being a “real” photographer, aiming and clicking the camera were not even second nature for me. There is a shadow of a smile in one of my pictures, if you look close.

Maybe I will have to go back to see him.

Note to self:

1) Reapply sunscreen.

2) Wear hat.

(My face hurt for three days….took me a while to realize it was burned.)

Ashville, NC

Monday.
Came here Sunday night. Staying at "our Italian family's place. Have been exploring, and am at Panera Bread to use internet.

June 10, 2007 Sunday - Trevor Hudson

We attended Thrasher United Methodist Church in Vinton, VA. I don’t have a story for the name, but it seemed like an active, welcoming place. The summer‘s message theme is the Lord’s prayer.

Then we drove to nearby Roanoke to meet Trevor Hudson, just in town from Johannesburg, South Africa to be the “Conference Preacher” at the annual gathering of Virginia United Methodists. What an honor and a pleasure to have lunch with the author whose book we had so recently studied! We spent the afternoon listening to stories from each other’s countries, so wishing we could see more of this person who was becoming our new friend. He also showed us photos of his wife Debbie (who teaches high school biology) and his children Joni and Mark (who are similar ages to our children).

Trevor gave us some perspective and advice and names of people we “must” contact in his country. It is always remarkable to me when people see more than they need to, beyond themselves. Trevor, for instance, spoke of “living in a bubble”. But what does it take to recognize a bubble? He also spoke of being very nice individuals “allowing our institutions to sin for us”. I hadn’t thought in those words before. “ Allowing our institutions to sin for us…"

Not long ago, in reading one of the South Africa guidebooks in preparation for the trip, I just stared at a picture of a baobab tree. I wanted to use one in my website, but I wondered if I should just find a photo on the web, or if I should wait until I could take a photo of one myself? I decided it would be too long before I saw one myself, and to just use one from the web. But as I stared at that picture, the space between imagining a baobab and actually seeing a baobab became smaller in my mind.

There seemed like a children’s fairy tale lesson (which must be how I think). Here will always be “here”, and there will always be “there”, but maybe there is a way they are not so far apart. And I will always be me, and you will always be “you”, but maybe the space between us does not have to be so far.

And now that we have met Trevor, a faraway place has become as close as a friend’s heart.

Roanoke, VA

Saturday
Arrived in Roanoke tonight.
Practicing with tiny computer & keyboard.
Will have lunch with Trevor Hudson Sunday. (It's still night to me.)

June 4, 2007

Today is the first day of John's leave! We picked up the documents (including tickets) from Holly, our travel agent, and asked still more questions.

Packing Preparation
People have been asking if I am packed. I have a collection of items together, from which I will need to sort what can actually fit into my suitcase.

Medical Preparation
Over a period of months, we have had immunizations for Hepatitis A and B, flu, polio, and typhus. We had our prescriptions filled for malaria preventive pills (take every day for a month) and antibiotic pills (just in case of any traveler's needs).

Communication Preparation
This past semester, I took a Novi Community Education HTML class with the idea of putting a web site together to share something about this journey. I put the site together with Notepad. I am experimenting with Google's free beta program for now (rather than paying for host space and a domain name). (This space is made to be "easy", but it is somewhat restrictive.) Of course, the site is a long way from "finalized", but it is a beginning place and does contain some answers. Much of it is repeated in different forms, whether you prefer a simple running list, a calendar (with click-able details), or an interactive map (you can zoom in and also chose a satellite view). I will probably still tweak those parts some, but the journals (blogs) should have most of the new content. We expect to have internet access most of the trip, but cannot tell for sure. We may not write daily, but do plan to record experiences when we can.


Explanation of title:
Why "Beyond the Wilderness" for my journal title?

I was fascinated by the image several years ago during a Bible study of the third chapter of Exodus. Moses had run into trouble in the land of his birth, so escaped to a new place. He made a new life for himself, finding a wife and a new job. He joined his father-in-law's business and became a shepherd. And one day, while caring for his father-in-law's flock of sheep, he led them "beyond the wilderness".

I thought he was in the wilderness. What is beyond the wilderness?

"Beyond the wilderness" is the "burning bush" story, where God chose to make Himself known to Moses. He had noticed Moses' actions in pursuit of justice: when Moses killed the Egyptian for beating one of his kinsfolk; and later when Moses defended his future-but-as-yet-unknown bride and her sisters against shepherds who tried to prevent them from watering their flock. Apparently God chose to redirect Moses' energies to a larger, impossible-sounding task, leading his people out of slavery.

So I love this whole idea of wilderness and what that means for each person, including new and unexpected experiences, and the possibilities that may be found along the journey.

I'm Going to Africa

I am excited about going to Africa!