Robben Island and Townships – Friday, June 22, 2007

Their voices are fresh in my mind. And yet they begin to fade already. But even if they become less distinct, they will not disappear, for now they are a part of me.

Two visits were scheduled for today:

1) Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was a political prisoner; and

2) Langa and Gugulethu, two townships near Cape Town.

My spelling of person’s names may not be correct, but I want to include them as well as I can.

Today was an official tour day, so first thing this morning, a driver/escort called Iby transported us to the waterfront to pick up the boat headed for Robben Island. Along the way into town, we learned that his family was one of those forced to leave District Six (a formally mixed-group area) when the apartheid law was passed that allowed only whites to live in cities. Blacks moved to “townships”, and District Six (as other areas) was razed. We passed the land that even today, sits empty – prime city real estate. There is talk of rebuilding there, but of course, that will be expensive. We also learned that Iby taught himself to speak English by watching American movies. (His first language was Africaans.)

Boat ride to the island
I had thought the boat ride across a piece of the Atlantic Ocean might be rather high adventure, but it turned out (due to calm weather) to have a similar feel to an Arnold catamaran ride to Mackinac Island (Michigan, USA). There was no magnificent Mackinac Bridge in sight, but looking back on Cape Town, there was the soaring classic profile of Table Mountain, starting with Devil’s Peak on the left, then the Table, then a little lower was Signal Hill, and higher was Lion’s Head on the right. We also saw a seal and several dolphins along the way.

U.S. Connections
First we met (our accent gives us away) a family from Colorado, with a daughter at the University of Michigan. Then we met a campus team of 21 leaders (United Methodist campus ministers Kim and Malcolm) and students from the University of Maryland and Howard University, who had been up to Johannesburg together.

On the island
Dan was our group’s driver once we arrived on the island. He pointed out both landmarks and animals (penguins, English deer, lots of rabbits, springbok, and peacocks).

Landmarks included the house where Robert Sobukwe was detained in isolation, and the lime quarry where Mandela and others worked (and the hole where they held University).

Derrick Basson was our guide inside the prison. He had also served time there as a political prisoner (a prerequisite to work as a guide) and is now 40 years old. Derrick explained something about the daily life of prisoners.

Township visits - back on the mainland
Next we were joined by Thando (which he said means “Love” in Xhosa), our guide for our township visits. He explained that there are three different “clicks” in the Xhosa language. (I will have to listen more closely.)

Langa
We (Eby) drove to the township of Langa, where we met Patricia, one of a half dozen women working at an outdoor shop. Each had her own area for a table and an open fire. Patricia explained her work (12 hours a day, 7 days a week). On her table were several sheep heads. There was a roaring fire behind her, which she used to help sear off the hair, which she would then scrape more completely off with her tool. She then added the heads to the bubbling pot at the edge of her fire. Then after about an hour, she would remove it. The meat is then scraped out for eating. (She had earlier removed the brain.)

I know you may wonder how it tasted, and I will have to tell you I did not have any. But please let me know if you do. (It looked rather like chicken when it was done.)

Thando also introduced us to a man who practiced traditional medicine, and we admired his collection of materials he uses.

Thando explained that 60,000 residents of District Six had been removed. He said that was just one of 42 areas that had been moved. (These townships are not a part of District Six; I am just covering my notes.)

Gugulethu
Thando explained that this means “our hope”. It is a place of redevelopment, in situ, meaning that people do not move away, but only aside, while improvements such as running water and a toilet are being provided by the government. They move their residence back on that spot and expect to be able to build a new house within a couple years. We saw examples of these stages. Seeing people across the road with a new house does not bring jealousy, but hope, Thando said.

Thando had many words of hope and wisdom to share. It sounded like he had read many books, and perhaps should be writing his own.

One lesson was that asking the mood of the people is like determining if a pot of rice is done. You do not have to eat the whole pot. You just need one grain. The test grain for South Africa is Nelson Mandela, he said. Mandela represents hope.

A Xhosa phrase he tried to teach us:
Umntu gumntu gabantu (I believe).
“People are people by virtue of other people.” (about living in community)

I record a few words of greeting here in hopes of better remembering them.
Molo – Greeting (singular)
Molweni – Greeting (plural)
Kunjani? – How are you?
Pilile – Fine
Enkosi – Thank you

Thando also welcomed picture-taking, including of those we met with him (we asked). He encouraged people to come and connect with each other, the better to understand each other and to appreciate each other as individuals with God-given worth.

Our time ended with a visit to Thando‘s own home, with final words and lessons, and from us, of course, our own lesson to him that Michigan is as close as your hand.

John and I had been saying for months, “We’re going to Africa!”
Today we said, “We are in Africa!”

Table Mountain – June 21, Thursday

John found our way (left side of road) part way up Table Mountain to the cable car station, where we embarked on the quick ascent the rest of the way up. Maybe I was too tired to be afraid. But I was also excited.

I understand that some days the mountain is covered with a “table cloth” of clouds, but today was a clear winter day, with terrific 360 degree visibility as we walked around the top. Definitely a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

The view included Robben Island, which we are visiting tomorrow (out 7 miles aboard some kind of boat in the Atlantic Ocean).

In the meantime, John has been talking to “contacts” and making plans with some.

Flight to South Africa

June 18-19 Monday – Tuesday

James drove us to the airport before work. We flew United from Detroit to Dulles International Airport at Washington D.C. We hurried to our connection aboard South Africa Air to Johannesburg, then boarded another plane for Cape Town.

Last week, Trevor had wisely counseled not to rent a car at the airport after traveling over night for two days, then driving (manual transmission, which John can drive) on the left side of the road at night. We waited until the next day to pick up a car. Good idea!

Gavin, a new friend, sent by his friend Mark Stephenson of Salty Print (I still need to meet Mark) kindly drove us downtown to the Avis rental place and helped orient us to driving and landmarks like Devil’s Peak, Table Mountain, and Lion’s Head (in that order if you are looking at the classical view).

By the way, I was stunned that first morning (Wednesday) to step outside the hotel to the magnificent view of Table Mountain (which Gavin later explained did not match the picture in my mind because it was a side view). Our plane had arrived at 7:00 Tuesday night, a dark winter’s night here, so I had seen nothing.

Although it was dark and quiet for several hours on the plane, I had not slept much. (I did not get in as much reading on the plane as I had hoped either, because of the darkness.) I was so glad to have a place to sleep horizontally at the hotel! My body is still adjusting, or maybe just reacting. (The time is six hours later here than home. )

Home for a brief weekend - June 15 (driving day), 16, & 17

Sunday, we worshiped at Tom Hartley’s church, Community Presbyterian Church in Waterford. Tom and John have been friends since junior high (Adams), even on to Michigan State University and then summer jobs as camp counselors at Camp Dearborn’s Youth Camp. (We all met our spouses there. Tom married Sherrie.) We also got to see their sons and meet their wives. (One was from South Africa, so we had all sorts of questions.)